Several Tips for Finding Yardage on a Crochet Project

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Did you know you could use Algebra to figure out yardage 
also
helps you figure out if you have enough yarn?

Don't worry if you're not a fan of it just follow what you see below. Takes only a couple minutes.

I have a lot of time on my hands so I thought I would share how I determine how much yarn I used on a project. You could also use it to see if you have enough yarn for a project. Sometimes it's not as easy as multiplying 2 numbers together. I use it primarily for blankets but you can use it for other items as well.

When I crocheted a Baby Blanket I realized that Proportions could be used  to figure out how much yarn I used. Proportions are 2 fractions with an = sign in between them. I use so many different yarns and I also do a border. I also need to know how much yarn I used for sewing it together. It can get a bit complicated and I found that proportions were a perfect choice to figure that all out....and quickly.

((I did have another explanation when I first posted this but I wanted to explain something simpler. I didn't want to overload your brain.))

FOR WORSTED WEIGHT YARN

Let say I needed to know how many inches are 196 single crochets. I used an I hook and when I use that size hook I know that 20 Single Crochets = 44 inches. I did 20sc's and measured them, that's all there is to it.

So the question is.....If 20sc equals 44 inches then how many inches are used for 196sc's?

The proportion looks like this with explanation below.
20sc  =  196sc

44in          x

The left fraction is the information that we already know which is 20sc's = 44 inches. Put one on top of the other in the fraction.

The right fraction: The 196sc needs to be across from the other SC number (196). The inches also need to be across from each other. Since we don't know how many in 196 that is "x"....the unknown #. 196 on top and "x" on the bottom.

Now set up the fraction as seen above.

Time to Cross Multiply which means diagonally. 20 times "x" = 20x    AND  44 x 196 =8,624sc
So now you have 20x = 8,624

Now the Algebra comes into use......
Now Divide 20 on both sides so "x" is alone.
You have x = 431 inches
That is our answer which is almost 36 feet/12 yards

-------------------------------------------
Measurements that I've done so far. More to come...

I Hook
20sc = 44 inches

20hdc = 67 inches

20dc = 88 inches

K Hook
20sc = 50 inches
20hdc =76 inches


Let me know if you have any questions. I'm more then happy to help. If you leave a comment it won't be seen by the public unless I approve it to be. You can leave your email address if you need me to figure something out for you. OR just email me at Heatherg23@aol.com
Thanks!!
Heather

Crochet Puff Stitch Granny Square Pillow

Download Pattern Instructions here

This is my new Crochet Puff Stitch, Granny Square, Pillow. I wanted to make into a pillow because of how soft the stitch is. All those Puff stitches create a nice cushion.

The Puff Stitch Video can be found HERE. The video is 1 color only. 

There are 2 different sides. I wanted to do something different.  I have yardage for each side because I used different weight yarn. 

15 inches is the pillow size.

Side 1: Solid Cream Color (Lionbrand Baby Soft - 1 pound)  (thin worsted weight). 

All 13 Rows = 209 yards of Thin worsted yarn
**************************************************

Side 2: Solid colored - Yarn: Caron 1 pound (Deep Violet, Lilac, Cream, Sky Blue)

If you were to do a solid colored granny square with Worsted Weight Yarn it would be 121 yards.  

Hook Size: J

14 inch pillow

Row 1: ch1 (Work 1 Puff st in ring, chain 1)8 times in the ring, Join with a slip stitch to the top of the 1st Puff Stitch. Cut yarn and finish off. (8 puff stitches)

Row 2: ch1, Do (1 Puff, ch1) x2 in the same space and in each ch1sp all the way around, join in the top of the beginning Puff stitch (16 Puff stitches)

Row 3: We start to square off the granny square

ch1, Do 1 Corner in same space, ch1. Do (1 Puff in next ch-space, ch1)x3 then *Do 1 Corner, ch1. Do (1 Puff st in the next ch1-space, ch1)x3* Repeat from * to * then join in the top of the beginning Puff st . (20 Puff stitches)

Row 4: ch1, Do 1 Puff st in same space, ch1. Do 1 Corner in next ch3-space, ch1. Do (1 Puff st in the next ch1-space, ch1)x4. *Do 1 Corner in next ch3-space, ch1. Do (1 Puff st in the next ch1-space, ch1)x4* repeat from * to * then do (1Puff st, ch1) in each ch1-space and join in the top of the Puff st. (24 Puff stitches)

Row 5: ch1, do 1 Puff in same space, ch1, 1 Puff in next ch1-space, ch1. *Do 1 Corner in next ch3-space, ch1. Do (1 Puff in next ch1-space, ch1)x5* Repeat 3 times total then do 1 Co rner in next ch3-space, ch1, do (1 Puff, ch1) in each ch1-space and join in the top of the beginning Puff st. (28 Puff stitches)

You can continue in the same manner as many rows as are needed.

If you need to change yarns every row like the other side of my pillow here is the pattern..

The beginning chain 3 counts as the first DC

Chain 6 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring

Row 1: ch1 (Work 1 Puff st in ring, chain 1)8 times in the ring, Join with a slip stitch to the top of the 1st Puff Stitch. Cut yarn and finish off. (8 puff stitches)

Row 2: Join yarn in any ch1-space and chain 1. Do (1 Puff, ch1) x2 in the same space and in each ch1sp all the way around, join in the top of the 1^st Puff stitch (16 Puff stitches)

Row 3: (Starting to square it off) Join yarn in between the a group of 2 puffs. It's also below where you cut off the yarn when you ended row 2. Ch1, Do (1 Corner, ch1)in same space. Do (1Puff, ch1) in each of the next 3 ch1-spaces * Do (1 Corner, ch1)in the next ch1-space. Do (1Puff, ch1) in each of the next 3 ch1-spaces * repeat 2 times total. Then, do (1 Corner, ch1) in next chspace. Do (1Puff, ch1) in each ch1-space then join at the top of the beginning Puff st.

(20 Puff stitches)

Row 4: Join new yarn in any corner ch3-space. Ch1, Do (1 Corner, ch1) in same space *Do (1 Puff, ch1) in each ch1-space, Do (1 Corner, ch1) next ch3-space * repeat 2 more times then Do (1 Puff, ch1) in each of the next 4 ch1-spaces and join in the top of the beginning chain 3. (24 Puff stitches)

Repeat in the same manner as many rows as you need on your square

FINISHING:

One thing I want to say is that I usually make the granny squares ¼ inch less then the size of the pillow so it's taut. If you make the squares to big the pillow form may be loose inside the granny squares.

Take the first granny square and lay it across the pillow form then take safety pins and attach the corners of the granny sq. through the corners of the pillow form. 

Take the 2nd Granny square and lay it on the pillow form. Get the safety pin through the 4 corners of that square as well.

Then, I started doing a single crochet through both sides. Do a single crochet in each side. On the corners, I did 5 single crochets. Just do as many as you think needs to be done. I used an H size hook.

You can do the whip stitch with a yarn needle if you want to.

Again, the pattern instructions can be found here

You can find this pattern, and other Puff stitch pattern, HERE

Thanks for Stopping by!

Heather Gibbs

http://crochetpatterns09.blogspot.com

Blue Granny Square Baby Blanket

This Crochet baby blanket (or Lapghan) consists of 20 Granny Squares that are 7 3/4^th inches in size. There are 6 rows in the Granny Square and 1  "border" row of Single Crochets.

This square is called a Traditional Granny Square. If you're a beginner this is a great square to make. I say that because you're not crocheting into a stitch you're crocheting into spaces.

I have the instructions written 2 ways. The first is written with repeats and the 2^nd does not. It's completely written out which can make it mu

Total Size: 41inches (104.14 cm) x 32 inches (81.280 cm)

Hook Size: Granny Squares = K /10.5 / 6.50mm

YARDAGE: Yarns used (Worsted Weight) 

• Red Heart, “Stonewashed” (Medium Shade of Blue) 126 yards
• I Love that Yarn, “Dark Country Blue” (Darkest Shade of Blue) 425 yards
• Caron 1 Pound, “Sky Blue” (Lightest Shade of Blue) 543 yards

The Dark Country blue used over 1 skein of yarn just because I did a row  7 made of Single Crochets, as a border. So if you want to stay under 1 skein omit this row or use a different yarn for it. I did it because I used the same yarn for Row 6 and for sewing and I wanted to be able to see a slight difference in color so the 2 wouldn't blend together. I like the effect.

For help on determining how much yarn you used a great can be found in my other blog post HERE

Abbreviations:

• ch1sp, ch3sp = Refers to the space made by ch1's or ch3's, from a previous row
• ch 1 or ch 3 = chain 1, or 3, with your yarn and hook
• * to * = Repeat the instructions between the astericks
• beg = beginning

Make 20 Squares

Chain 5 and join to form a circle

First Pattern, written with Repeats

Yarn A

Row 1: Ch 3, do 2 dc in the ring, ch3, (Do 3dc in the ring, ch3)x3.and join at the top of the beginning chain 3 to make the last corner.

Yarn A

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as the beg ch3 + ch1) *In the next corner do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) chain 1 * repeat * to * 3 times total. In the last corner space do (3dc, ch3, 2dc). Now join in the 3^rd out of the beginning chain 4 to create the final dc. finish off yarn.

Yarn B:

Row 3: join yarn in any corner ch3sp and chain 3, Do (2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the same space, chain 1, *do 3dc in next ch1sp, ch1. In the next corner space do (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch1* repeat * to * 3 times total. Finish by doing 3dc in the next ch1sp, ch1 and join by doing a slip stitch in the top of the beginning ch3

Yarn B:

Row 4: chain 4 (counts as the beg ch3 + ch1) *Do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner ch3sp, chain 1 [corner made]. Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1)2 times [side made]* 3 times total.

Do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner ch3sp, chain 1 [corner made]. Do 3dc in next ch1sp, ch1. Do 2dc in next ch1sp and join with a slip stitch in the 3^rd of the beginning ch4. finish off yarn.

Yarn C

Row 5: Join yarn in any corner ch3sp and chain 3. Do (2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the same space and chain 1 [corner made]. *(3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 3 times.

Do (3dc,ch3, 3dc) next corner ch3sp, ch1* repeat from * to * 3 times. Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1)3 times total. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beg chain 3.

Yarn C

Row 6: chain 4 (counts as the beg ch3 + ch1)

*(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner space, chain 1, (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 4 times *. Repeat * to * 3 times. Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 3 times . Do 2dc in next ch1sp and join with a slip stitch in the 3^rd of the beginning ch4. finish off yarn.

Yarn B

Row 7 Border: Insert hook into any stitch and chain 1, then do 1sc in each stitch. For the corners you can do (2sc, ch3, 2sc)

Cut yarn and weave in all ends

Below are the instructions completely written out, without repeats.

I wanted to mention something that I said at the beginning of the post, but just in case you came right down to these instructions.......... If you want yarn B to be under 1 skein (365yrds or so) either omit Row 7 (border of SC) or use a dif yarn. 

Yarn A

Row 1: Ch 3, do 2 dc in the ring, ch3,

(Do 3dc in the ring, ch3), (Do 3dc in the ring, ch3),(Do 3dc in the ring, ch3). Now join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3 to make the last corner.

Yarn A

Row 2: Ch 4 (the beg ch3 +ch1)

In the next corner do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) chain 1,

In the next corner do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) chain 1,

In the next corner do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) chain 1,

In the last corner space do (3dc, ch3, 2dc).

Now join in the 3^rd out of the beginning chain 4 to create the final dc. finish off yarn.

Yarn B

Row 3: join yarn in any corner ch3sp and chain 3,

Do (2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the same space, chain 1,

do 3dc in next ch1sp, ch1. In the next corner space do (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch1

do 3dc in next ch1sp, ch1. In the next corner space do (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch1

do 3dc in next ch1sp, ch1. In the next corner space do (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch1

Finish by doing 3dc in next ch1sp,ch1 and join doing a slip st.n the top of the beg ch3

Yarn B:

Row 4: chain 4 (the beg chain 3 + ch1)

• Do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner ch3sp, chain 1 (Corner made). 
  Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1). Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1)
• Do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner ch3sp, chain 1 (Corner made) 
  Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1). Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1)
• Do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner ch3sp, chain 1 (Corner made).
  Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1). Do (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1)
• Do (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner ch3sp, chain 1 (Corner made).
• Do 3dc in next ch1sp, ch1.
• Do 2dc in next ch1sp and join with a slip stitch in the 3^rd of the beginning ch4. finish off yarn.

Yarn C

Row 5: join yarn in any corner ch3sp and chain 3,

• (2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the same space, chain 1,

(3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 3 times total
• Do (3dc,ch3, 3dc) next corner ch3sp, ch1 (Corner made)
  (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 3 times total,
• Do (3dc,ch3, 3dc) next corner ch3sp, ch1 (Corner made)
  (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 3 times total,
• Do (3dc,ch3, 3dc) next corner ch3sp, ch1 (Corner made)
  (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 3 times total and join with the top of the beginning
  chain 3

Yarn C

Row 6: chain 4 (beginning ch3 + ch1)

• *(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next corner space, chain 1, (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 4 times total,*

• Do (3dc,ch3, 3dc) next corner ch3sp, ch1 (Corner made) (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 4 times total

• Do (3dc,ch3, 3dc) next corner ch3sp, ch1 (Corner made) (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 4 times total

• Do (3dc,ch3, 3dc) next corner ch3sp, ch1 (Corner made)
  (3dc in next ch1sp, ch1) 3 times
  
  
• To finish do 2dc in the next ch1sp and join with the 3rd of the beginning chain 4
  Finish off yarn

Yarn B

Row 7 (Border): Insert hook into any stitch and chain 1. You are doing 1sc in each stitch. For the corners you can do (2sc, ch3, 2sc)

Cut the yarn. You can weave in the ends or weave them in as you sew.

Yarn C

Finishing: I single crocheted the granny squares together. I hope to get a video out on how to do that. It's hard to stay in words. Hopefully by late fall, 2013. I will give a link when it's on Youtube. 

To see my Crochet Videos click here. That will take you to the Playlist.

Thanks for visiting!

Heather